Pandas 🐼 and China conclusion, Days 317-320

We really like Chengdu. It is a living city. Everywhere bicycles can be borrowed. Ping Pong and Karaoke is played in the parks.

Together with the other cyclers Guy, Kamilla, Coco and Violette, Judith visits the world-famous breeding station of the pandas 🐼 in Chengdu. In an incubator, we admire the small, helpless creature, which then grows up to these relatively large, thick, heartfelt pandas 🐼.

Surprisingly, there is no suitcase wrapping machine at the airport in Chengdu. This confirmed Justin, who works at the airport. He kindly organises bubble wrap film for us, in which we pack our bikes. On Friday morning Justin accompanies us to the airport. At check in we experience again the strict Chinese controls. Our luggage is scanned several times. At the stopover in Zhengzhou, we are stopped in front of the passport control because we do not have a blue ticket like the other passengers. Only now we understand, that we should have taken this when leaving the airplane. Once again, the Chinese do not know, what to do with us. After several phone calls then the responsible person is summoned and we also get this card. Again, we are not informed when the boarding or when the departure is. Even when we wait an entire hour for departure, there is no information. The people here seem to be used to having someone think for them and waiting for the next orders.

Conclusion China:
China is an incredibly exciting and adventurous travel destination. Unfortunately, our one-month visa, with a two-month extension, was far too short to travel the big country. But already with the two provinces Yunnan and Sichuan we got to know two different and scenic areas. We were especially pleased that we were able to discover something of the very warm Tibetan culture. Culinary China offers an unimaginable, large selection. Picturesque with the high mountains and the rice terrace it is a natural paradise! However, as far as the administration is concerned, it is energy-consuming and a test of patience. Luckily we applied for our visa in Vientiane, Laos and not in Hannoi, Vietnam. Several cyclers told us that they camped in front of the consulate for four nights to keep their place in the queue. The visa is really a problem, it determines and makes a trip to China extremely difficult! It is generally difficult to get information, such as which areas are closed, what visa extension documents are needed, and what are the condition of the roads. The regulations change very quickly and are implemented according to the mood of the officials. So we learned several times that we were sent away by a bus, sim card store or hotel with a “may yo” (does not work, does not exist). People are usually very friendly, although communication is a big challenge. Never have we learned so little of the language as here in China. This has to do with people speaking Tibetan in some of the areas we have traveled to and Chinese being very difficult to learn.

The sometimes very ruthless behavior towards the people, animals and nature has frightened and saddened us several times. For example, animals are kept in the smallest cages, artificial terraces built in national parks, lavishly ordered and not eaten food or ruthless honking and overtaking on the street.

We are glad that now slurping, spitting and honking will come to an end!

Just beautiful, Days 301-307

In Xiangcheng we get to know the Tibetan culture. In the evening, young and old meet at the village square at 19: 00-20: 00. One group dances to traditional music, another marches with its prayer chain several rounds around a sacred pillar (Kora), others push the prayer wheels as they pass, and some simply watch the action. The music sounds from a speaker and the bells ring from the prayer wheels. It is a very peaceful and happy mood.

Since the direct route from Xiangcheng to Sangdui is under construction, we take the detour via Daocheng and ride 40 kilometers back. Early at 17:00 o’clock we stopp cycling, because we find a great place to sleep on 3800müM and do not want to stay too high. We enjoy the evening and crawl into the tent early. At night we marvel at the beautiful and near starry sky.

The 4700müM pass is the target for the day. The Chinese have done a great job, because the road is very bike friendly with many curves and built with a pleasant gradient. So we are surprised when we are suddenly on top of the pass. We continue cycling, fly on the super new surface and pass the simple huts of the nomads who live here in the summer with their yaks, horses, sheep and pigs. At an old monastery with gold-decorated roof we stop. A monk leads us into the courtyard and into the splendid prayer room where there are three large golden statues. The exceptionally large monk, almost the same size as Andi, invites us to yak butter tea with yak cheese and tsampa (a kind of bread porridge) in the monastery kitchen. In the village of Mula we stop in the village restaurant, where we are admired by the curious children. On the high plateau of 4100müM we set up our camp.

After a cold night, we are glad to be warmed by the warm sun. The plateau leads up to 4500müM and reminds us of a valley in Uri, Switzerland. It follows a breezy descent through a desert-like landscape to Daocheng, where we enjoy a Sichuan dish. But this is too oily for our taste. In the evening we arrive in Sangdui, where the greengrocer throws us a mandarin and presents us with watermelon pieces. The people are really friendly.

Two high passes are on the agenda. The area is very nice. We see marmots that never whistle, a species of wild chickens and hares. It starts raining on the rabbit mountain pass 4696m asl, almost snowing a bit. On the downhill we get wet. After 5 hours of cycling we arrive in Jiawa. From there it is only 29km to Litang. On the last pass before Litang in front of a monastery we meet two monks. They are enthusiastic about our bicycles, but especially about the color of our bikes. We are celebrating another jubilee: ​​12,000 kilometers.

In Litang on our hotel marathon we come across a Tibetan family, which unfortunately have no room for us, but invites us for tea. In a large bowl, a monk prepares “Tsampa” and shapes it into pyramids. This is for the upcoming celebration and for Buddha.

Over dusty road and high passes to Sichuan, Days 297-300

Juhui, we are on our way again! A remote area with high passes is waiting for us. That’s why we visit the market once again and fill our bags with enough provisions. We take it easy the first day. At 2800 meters we find a nice spot by the river where we camp. It has not been so warm for a long time. In the best weather we continue cycling and manage the pass of 3900müM. At the top, countless Tibetan prayer flags blow in the wind. Warmly packed we enjoy the beautiful view. The nice thing about cycling passes is that mostly after the pass shows a whole new area. So we come into a narrow, green valley with large stately homes. We find a good hotel and enjoy the warm shower.

The next morning is the royal stage to the next larger city Xiangcheng (Xiangbala) on the program. Royal stage because a 60km long gravel road with partially sandy sections waiting for us. We are making very good progress and have a long lunch break. After three hours we reached the mountain pass 4300müM. The route continues on gravel and some climbs we tackle until then the road is sandy and extremely dusty. After six hours cycling we find a nice spot on a beautiful stream on 4300müM. In the morning we are greeted by a yak herd and a shepherd. We have never seen such big and beautiful yaks even with calves.

The descent in this sand and dust almost more exhausting than the climb! Again and again we are fogged by passing trucks and cars. After being shaken up for an hour, we reach with great relief asphalt again in Ranwu. A quick detour to the Hotspring is unfortunately disappointing and so we are back on the drive to Xiangcheng.

We left the Yunnan region with the pass and arrived in Sichuan. In Sichuan, the area and the people have changed a lot. It is drier, very barren in height and at the bottom of the river it has oasis-like, green terraced fields. The people are very friendly, have a very dark complexion and speak Tibetan. Instead of “ni hao” is now called “hallo” and with our Chinese translation app we sometimes get stuck, because many can only read the Tibetan script. To our great disappointment our SIM card does not work anymore. That means here in Sichuan apply extremely high roaming charges for our Yunnan card. In a few hours, the monthly credit is used up.

After five hours driving, we arrive dusty in Xiangcheng at the hotel. Luckily, we are already in the room when it starts to rain and to our great surprise we can take the dusty bicycles into the carpeted room, where we shower them off in the large bathroom. To our delight, Guy and Kamilla are still here and we exchange our experiences once more.

Wait and see! Days 284-296

In the city of Shangrila we start the visamarathon the next morning. To get the registration confirmation, we cycle to the police station. But only the second station can issue the confirmation of registration. At PSB (Public Security Bureau) we find everything closed. What now? It is Friday and according to opening hours, it should be open. But fortunately an official waves us in. We are kindly informed that the registration confirmation is not enough. It takes: A written travel report, a filled visa form and for a special document we must cycle to a foto studio at the other end of the city. The requested form is created for 80yüan (12.-sFr.) and we get 8 additional passport photos. We can definitely use them again later.

On Saturday we go with all documents to the PSB. Oh no! The office is closed again, even though they clearly promised us that it will be open. We see that the projector is running and the light is on. Curious we nock at the door. But nothing happens. Andi discovers a telephone number and soon a dynamic officer arrives, opens the door, puts on some Chinese music and sets up her office table while we are sitting tensely in the waiting room. Then it’s our turn. Oh no, the passport copy is missing. But somehow it works without. After one more photo, fingerprints are taken and 160 yuan per person (24.-sFr.) have to be paid. In five working days we can have our visas and passports back again 😳. No, we do not want to wait that long! The officer tells us that this is fast and that in other places it even takes an entire week. As we finally ask, when we can pick up our visa, she says: “Okay, come back on Monday!” We can hardly believe it! What was that? A joke? We can even call the officer on Monday on here mobile when we leave, so she is in the office when we arrive. Incredible! That’s China!

We use the time to discover all the delicious Chinese food: We try Dumblings, yak cheese, Chinese-Burger, dried yak meat, butter-Milk tea (not our liking), hot soymilk, nudels, wantan (kind of stuffed dumplings in a soup), yak yoghurt und flatbread. But in our absolute favorite restaurant, which is very inconspicuous and has just three tables, we were served with nice different dishes with vegetables and legumes. The friendly cook and her daughter offer us the last meal for free. Meanwhile we can eat easily with sticks.

Every day we stroll through the pulsating market. In contrast to the sleepy old town, which was built around 2002 and burnt down four years ago to 70% and completely rebuilt again, the market is extremely lively.
We stock up with blankets, hot and thermos bottles, since heating is unknown here. But they have mattress heaters, which we will miss in the coming stages over 4000müM in the tent. In addition, Judith needs a replacement sleeping mat, but unfortunately there is only Chinese quality here…

Kamilla and Guy the cycling couple from the USA arrives. We are pleased to see them again and we have a wonderful time. They introduce us into the cool “Bananagram-Game”, which we handicraft our self later.

On Monday the officer has no time and we should return to the office on Tuesday. On Tuesday the cycling couple Stefan & Jessica and Juanita arrive, so we are 7 touring cyclists in the same hostel😀 We have a very exciting exchange with intensive planning discussions. Because all are frustrated with the too short visa for such a big country and with the complicated Chinese administration. It is frustrating how the visa determines the itinerary and the speed of our journey. So Jessica, Stefan and Juanita are too early in Shangrila (In Shangrila extension is only possible in the last week of expiry) and can not extend their visa yet, but this rule does not apply to the next PSB. There, they have to be before the last 7 days of expiry. However, to get there is just not possible by bike, so they have no choice but to go by bus to Leshan.

On Tuesday we can finally pick up our passports with the new visas. However, Andi’s cold has gotten worse and we are waiting for a few more days. After almost two weeks in Shangrila, Andi’s cough cured and we head for Litang. During the last months we have discussed a lot and researched, where our journey should continue. We finally decided how and where to go after China! Flight is booked. But we keep it secret 😀.

Spring is here!, Day 270-274

With the new, exciting audio book about China and its history, it climbs by itself the last pass and then down to our first destination, Dali. First we arrive in the big city Dali. Only 15 kilometers later is the touristy, but very beautiful old town. Before we meet our Warmshower host, we see the USA cyclists Guy and Kamilla, who have been on the road for two years now and will be cycling the same route as we do. We will definitely meet again on the way.

Heimat shows us the local market and the beautiful, but unfortunately very touristy old town of Dali. We enjoy having Continue reading “China – Dali, way to Lijiang” →

All seems Chinese to us!, Day 262-269

We land in the middle of the night in Kunming. Everything seems Chinese to us! Fortunately, we experience a great readiness for help of the Chinese here. We are even spontaneously invited by Chinese Anderson for dinner and introduced to the Chinese language. We are overwhelmed. Organizing the SIM card proves to be very difficult. Everywhere we are sent away again. The area where we stay, is very Muslim influenced and so we find our beloved dates at a shop in front of the mosque. The next day at lunch we meet the Pakistan students. They invite us to their home. We have exciting conversations with many good tips for helpful apps. In China, Google, Whatsapp and Facebook are blocked. Installing VPN’s proves to be very difficult, only ExpressVPN works really well. We enjoy the fine tea and the Pakistani dinner. With their help, it is a piece of cake at the university to get the SIM card. This big and warm hospitality touches us a lot! Even the taxi costs back to our hotel are paid!

Well packed in the warm cycling clothes, which we had to dig out of the deep of our bags, we cycle towards Dali. Unfortunately, this stage is not so nice, as it is a larger road with moderate traffic. We are all the more pleased to enjoy the first hotpot at noon. In the evening we find a great, cheap hotel in the small village. For dinner we are even presented with vegetables from the garden.

With these pleasant temperatures, we can take it slowly in the morning. The area is very nice now. First, the little-used road leads along a river. Then there are many terrace fields, which are planted with different vegetables and on which is worked efficiently by hand. It is also longer light until half past eight and so we camp with beautiful views and our flashlights come late into operation.

As far as Lucheng, we are struggling with headwinds, with dusty roads, with many trucks and with a six-lane road, luckily not too busy. The highlight of the day is the old town in Lucheng. In the evening, the strong wind and thunderclouds keep us from camping.

The next morning we drive finally again a nice pass with a pleasant climb. At lunchtime we stop at a small restaurant. We simply point to the dishes of the other guests. Mostly in the restaurants there are big refrigerators with a glass wall. Then we point to the vegetables we want to have and are then looking forward to what is served. As in Thailand, we have to say explicitly that we do not want MSG, sugar or soy sauce, because that’s the only way our stomaches do not rumble. The strong wind keeps us from tents this evening. We are looking for a hotel, which is not easy with the Chinese characters! But we managed to find one.